I can barely contain my excitement - Al Sultan makes my day

Posted March 18, 2010

 I have longed for a broader Middle Eastern restaurant menu in Victoria.  Kebab is great and I'm happy with the addition of Turkish cuisine at Nar in Oak Bay, but I yearn for something more...

For what Al Sultan lacks in ambiance and booze, it makes up for with food. Al Sultan is located in the former Ribs and Bones space. I viewed the vacant space last year and while Al Sultan hasn’t changed the antiquated décor, they must have cleaned for a very long time. The furnishings are run down, but it’s as clean as it’s going to get without an expensive renovation and everyone is friendly.

The menu is halal. For practical purposes that means no pork, no blood, no carrion, or animals slaughtered in an inhumane manner and no alcohol is served. For most people, I imagine, the only significant distinction among these items is the no alcohol. I’ll drink tea if it means a delicious schwarma – you won’t hear me saying that about a lot of things.

When I lived in Egypt there were a few things I ate nearly every day – fool (fava beans, kinda like refried beans, but richer), chicken schwarma (seasoned chicken layered with fat and roasted on spit, then shaved) and tamaya (pretty much the same thing as falafel). In the absence of these items, I would have been very cranky. These dishes are all served at Al Sultan. One of the best things about the kebab and schwarma wraps served at Al-Sultan, is that they are served with the traditional tartour sauce (basically the same as tahini, made from crushed sesame seeds). It’s really rich and so delicious.  

The dessert list also has a couple of my favourites, basboussa and konafa. I had a piece of basboussa wrapped up so I could share it with our pastry chef Vicki. A semolina cake soaked in syrop; in this case cardamom syrop. Yum. I’ll have the konafa, a cheese filled pastry, next time. In fact, I’m giddy with excitement about working my way through the Al-Sultan menu.

1813 Douglas St (250) 590-4044 - open  1130-9pm

We had three dishes (fool, schwarma & kabab wraps), two beverages and dessert and our bill was $31.92, before tip

The Podium - something to chew on

Posted March 14, 2010

531 Yates St tel: (250) 382-3838

There’s a place for The Podium, the sports bar the fills the former Periklis Restaurant location on Yates St.  Tonnes of seating if you wanted to watch a game, comfortable ambiance and decent service. For what the food lacks in execution, it makes up for in value: you’re not paying for a world class culinary team, when you get a full rack of ribs for $13 on Saturday night.

It’s been at least 15 years since I ordered a Long Island Iced Tea, but they were on special and I was feeling festive, so I had four….they cost $3.5 each.  Patrick and my brother drank the Sleeman’s draught special, also $3.5. That’s pretty awesome value for a downtown restaurant.

The menu is fun and has some interesting selections. The specials on this Saturday were mix and match sliders for $2 ea, the selection included Angus beef, pulled pork and chorizo sausage to name a few.  The other  special was the above mentioned ribs for $13. Accompanied by corn bread, thick cut fries and coleslaw - both couples spilt an order and it was plenty of food (I guess it’s possible the 600g of sugar I was consuming in the form of Long Island Iced Teas, might have sedated my appetite a bit.) The dish wasn’t perfect - the corn bread was tasty, but it was stone cold in the middle (ie. not completely defrosted), I would have liked more coleslaw and the ribs could have spent another hour in the oven. That said, it wasn’t by any means bad and if I was feeling cheap and hungry, I would order it again.

The service was attentive and they brought all requested accoutrement (extra napkins, hot sauce etc…), in addition to food and beverage, when requested.  There were plenty of competent servers available and that’s all I need.

My expectations for the Podium weren’t set too high, but I was pleasantly surprised that they exceeded them.

Ham and Eggs Basquaise

Posted March 6, 2010

This is one of my favorite breakfasts - spicy, but balanced and fresh tasting, it'll get you going without weighing you down. Reserve extra sauce and serve with grilled meats or seafood.

Serves 3

Eggs BasquaiseIngredients:

1 c yellow onion, small dice
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 medium chili, deseeded, deveived and minced
4 Roma tomatoes, small dice
2 Red Peppers, roasted, peeled and small dice
I tsp small hot dry chillies, minced
125ml wine
125ml water
Salt and Pepper  - to taste
1/2 tsp smoked paprika
Olive Oil
Canola Oil
2 T white vinegar
4-6 good quality eggs
6-8 slices of European style ham (Bayonne, Serrano, Iberian, Prosciutto, Westphalia etc...)
Flat leaf Parseley - to garnish
Baguette

Equipment - frying pan, hand blender, saucepan, pie plate

Method:

 

mise en place - sauce basquaisePreheat oven to 400F
Place red peppers in the pie plate, with 3-4 T of Canola oil
Place peppers in the oven. Rotate after 10min. Remove after skin is charred and lifting away from the flesh of the fruit. Allow to cool


Dice onions, tomatoes, red peppers and mince chillies and garlic
Add 2 T of olive oil to a frying pan. When the pan is at medium heat, add the onions, garlic and chillies. Saute until the onions become translucent.


saute - sauce basquaiseAdd the tomatoes and peppers and saute until the tomatoes are soft.
Add the water and wine, stir and cook for 5-8 min, until the mixture is thick and everything is very soft.
Remove from heat and pulse the mixture with a hand blender or food processor until the texture is smooth, but retaining some of its original texture

Bring 3l of water to a boil in a saucepan, add 2T of vinegar
Reduce heat to a simmer and carefully break eggs into the water.
Poach until desired firmness of yolk
Remove from water and drain on paper towel


Serve eggs on a bed of  warm sauce and garnish with ham, parsley and serve with baguette

Defending our Backyard Food Festival

Posted March 3, 2010

Festival season will be upon us soon and one of the earlier culinary events of the season is the Island's Chef Cooperative's (ICC) Defending our Backyard  Festival at Fort Rodd Hill Food Festival May 30, 2010 from 12-4pm.

The event is designed to raise awareness of local food production and agriculture and the importance of small scale farming. The event is also a fundraiser for the ICC's grant program supporting local farmers.

Come and enjoy food and beverages from a variety of local restaurants, wineries and breweries, as well as taking the opportunity to learn more about community initiatives to encourage small scale farming.

Little Piggy Catering will be hosting a table at this year's event - so come say hi!

Tickets and information about volunteering and vendor information are available here.

Fishy Bundles of Hot Love

Posted February 27, 2010

Victoria has a reputation for fish and chips. I’m fairly confident this reputation has more to do with throw back “old English” tourism marketing campaigns, then it does with a legitimate culinary tradition. One thing leads to another and I think it’s safe to say that a genuine fish and chip culture has emerged in Victoria.

Fish and chips are a lot like many simple and fast foods, in such that people have very strong preferences about their presentation and style. Over the years fish and chips have changed, leading to a variety of styles – Old English, Americanised and West Coast Contemporary. I will not remark on Americanised, other than beware of comical illustrations of fish, or fish that talk.

Personally, I like the Old English style. One of the things I like most about this style is the newspaper packaging – lead poisoning is no longer a threat, trust me.

As a kid, on special occasions (or especially lazy occasions) my mom would take me to the chip shop to collect a family dinner. As a family of five, she would emerge from the shop with two large bundles of goodness wrapped in newspaper. She’d plop the packages in my lap for me to protect as we drove home. As was always the occasion growing up on Vancouver Island, it would be raining. The car would fill with steam and I was comforted by the toasty hot bundles in my lap and the promise of fat laden carbohydrates and fish that was soon to come. Upon our arrival home, we would get our malt vinegar and ketchup ready and everyone would camp in the living room for a rainy day picnic.

As a school kid, my friends and I would scrounge chip money from our moms. With short legs and limited time, we would haul ass to the chippy for lunch. Served in newspaper envelopes, the trick was to get enough condiments in the package to last until the bottom and without saturating the chips on the top. Being a deep narrow package, it was pretty tricky. If we’d paid as much attention in science class, we would have all been engineers.  

In the interest of health and variation, I am supportive of the west coast contemporary fish and chip innovation. Working with the traditional menu as inspiration, this style is not limited by convention. Look for long menu descriptions, complicated condiments, extensive product and sourcing information and alternatives to battered fish. These are good things in any restaurant

Where I eat fish and chips:

The Galley 2559 Estevan Avenue  (250) 598-2711 -  I’m totally biased, I’ve eating here since I was eight years old. That said, they bundle the chips in newspaper, it’s steamy inside and I love the boat replica décor.  The Oak Bay location is perfect for a walk to the beach and there’s almost always someplace to park. The prices are reasonable and the service appropriately friendly and competent.

Red Fish Blue Fish (250) 298-6877 1006 Wharf St – Ya, it’s kinda a no brainer. Everyone likes Red Fish Blue Fish. For me, it’s not an all the time destination, but when I’m feeling like a change from the Old English style, Red Fish Blue Fish and their west coast contemporary style, has some nicely executed variations on the traditional menu. Similarly, I like the ambiance and the service has always been very professional. The tacones, while tasty, are a bit of a bump in the road for me, after a Mexican friend told me tacone is the word for high heeled shoe.

Old British Fish and Chips 250-598-6112 1507 Pandora Avenue – a little light an ambiance and natural lighting, I once wrote a poem about their halibut burger. I will spare you the pain of amateur poetry, but working Sundays nearby, in a different and very empty restaurant, I had lots of time to think about the delicate contrasts of bun, fish and tartar sauce.

Sometimes you need a buttery Chardonnay

Posted February 8, 2010

Despite having fallen out of fashion after the California wine industry marketed the fun right out of oaked Chardonnay, sometimes you might want, or need a buttery chardonnay. If I could afford fancy Chardonnays from Burgundy then we wouldn't have an issue, but I can't (at least outside of my wedding anniversary or birthday).

There's just no substitute when you've got some big fat scallops and you want coquilles St Jacque, or a fresh Dungeoness crab with drawn butter, yum...

J Lohr Riverstone Chardonnay $22.99 - I had this at Blighty's Bistro recently, good value and an effective pair with virtually all shellfish

Fleur de Cap Chardonnay $8.49 - Well, it's not nearly as good as the preceding selection, but for the price, it's a pretty darn good substitute.

Toasted Head Chardonnay $17.99 - To balance off my previous two suggestions, Toasted Head comes up the middle.

 

Turkish Food Behind the Tweed Curtain

Posted January 31, 2010

Nar Cafe Bistro 2540 Windsor Rd 250-598-1085

Get ready to put on your explorers cap as you begin your voyage into deepest darkest Oak Bay...Well, not really, Nar is only around the corner from the Marina Restaurant, but this part of Oak Bay is known as a bit of a commercial wasteland.

Located in the former Windsor Tea Room, new chefs/owners Ozlem and Cemil Karahasan came from Turkey to pursue their culinary passion after a visit to Victoria 10 years ago.  Well thank goodness they did, adding some much needed variety to the culinary landscape. I have long been puzzled by the absence of Turkish...Persian...Middle Eastern...North African restaurants in Victoria?! Granted, my longing is pre-set by a kind of homesickness for a time I spent living in Egypt as a younger person; but seriously, these are some pretty great culinary traditions that are very approachable for European/North American palates. There should be more of this kind of food in Victoria.

Back to Nar, the menu is small, but with enough variety to suit the needs of your average party of diners. The menu includes vegetarian and seafood dishes, but is notable for its selection of lamb dishes. The small plates are Turkish style mezze. Both hot and cold items  were creative in their design and excellent in execution. Similarly, our main courses were served with an above average sense of culinary sophistication. The desserts are Turkish, which is fun and tasty.  They serve the Turkish liquor Raki, as well as Turkish beer and a selection of wines. The wine list could use a little panache for my taste, but I'm usually happy as long as there is something in my glass.

Ozlem and Cemil are in the process of opening up a coffee shop next door in the former flower shop. Located across the street from the Windsor Pavilion, two municipal sport pitches, tennis courts and just down the way from a Montessori school and fancy pants, private primary school, I think the coffee shop will keep them very busy.  They even say they'll have Turkish coffee....

 

Great Value Rioja!

Posted January 28, 2010

Antano, Rioja, Crianza 2007, Garcia Carrion Vinos de Familia - $12.99 (BCLD)

Wow, you don't see a Rioja this inexpensive very often in BC.  A tempranillo, grancha, granciano and mazuelo blend, it tastes as characteristically "Rioja" as its more expensive breatheren.   From a long established wine making family, with vineyards and wineries in several well known Spanish wine regions, I'm crossing my fingers I'll see more of this kind of value on the shelf. The structure of this wine and its balanced fruit flavours will hold up to most dinner time fare, such as pasta and casserole dishes, grilled and roasted meats.

Osaka Sushi

Posted January 21, 2010

1951 Oak Bay Ave

With Blue Coast gone, Osaka Sushi fills its place. Having turned over a number of restaurants in the past few years, it's now or never for the viability of this location. I think Osaka Sushi has a fighting chance. Unlike some of its predecessors, it is definitively 'something' and incoming patrons will not have to question the restaurant concept. It is a full service Japanese restaurant. Much like many Japanese restaurants, Victoria and Oak Bay in particular, have an appetite for both sushi and other Japanese style food. We may have stay'er at 1951 Oak Bay Ave.

Small Plates Make Me Happy

Posted January 9, 2010

I’m a big fan of small plates and I’m delighted by the rate with which they are catching on in Victoria. A well portioned multi course menu is great too, but that’s a lot harder to plan and execute than a menu composed of smaller portions, giving diners the opportunity to mix and match. In addition to better suiting small appetites it also accommodates large ones at the same table, without creating an obtrusive distinction among tablemates. No one wants to look like a piggy or a little bird when they’re dining in mixed company. For that reason, small plate menus lend themselves nicely to dining with people whose tastes you’re not familiar with – relatives, employers/employees, long lost friends etc.... It is however friendly in these situations, if needed, to provide a little guidance with respect to the style of menu and indicate that they can order as little or as much as they like. A good way to present this information is to ask the server about portion size, they’ll do the rest.

My favourite small plate restaurants:

  • Stage - George's charcuterie is always a winner. Great wine, service and a good neighbour
  • Café Brio - I love that you can pick small plates or big plates of the same items. Great housemade charcuterie too.

Others I like :

  • Tapas Bar - an oldy, but always a crowd pleaser, not to mention who doesn't like Wine Wednesday.
  • Sips -Featuring a great wine store next door and the opportunity to experiment with lots of great wine, including an excellent selection of BC and Island wines.
  • The Superior - Great ambiance
  • Bistro 28 - New on the scene, featuring small and large plates. My highlight is the yummy foie gras torchon.

View older posts »

Pho Ever

1669 Pear St tel: 250-388-0028 Mon-Sun 1130-9pm  closed Wednesday

spicy soup makes Patty look crazyYou can't beat the name. The first time I went by, the Pho Ever sign had a "Cheap Alcohol" banner appended to it. Sounds great to me.

While easily the source of dumb jokes, the name Pho Ever is hard to extract from your brain. I will spare the jokes.

A combination of Vietnamese and Korean dishes, including a selection of pho (soups), the menu is well constructed with a little something for everyone and prices are very reasonable.

The space is clean and organised with a new renovation and some very nice quality tables and chairs. There is similarly some very swanky looking booths in the back that for lack of a better word, look very VIP. It's not an aesthetic masterpiece by any means (the artwork and colour scheme are not to my taste), but it's comfortable and feels like someone knew what they were doing.

The alcohol selection is limited, but is indeed reasonably priced with domestic and import beers, house wine and soju (Strong Korean wine). Patty had a Korean beer ($5) and I had a domestic beer ($4). building my lunch

We started with the dumplings ($3.95 - 6pcs).  They were tasty - so tasty they may have been made in-house. I could taste distinct seasoning and they weren't especially salty. The were fried, but not greasy and the fryer oil was fresh. The dipping sauce was a conventional ponzu type, but tasted correct with the dumplings.

I had the Bun Thit Nuong, Cha Gla ($8.95), a Vietnamese style vermicelli noodle bowl with pork and spring roll. Fresh, with delicate flavours and crispy julienne cucumber and carrots. The pork was more heavily seasoned and grilled - super yummy. The spring roll, like the dumplings were crispy and flavourful.

Patty had the Jjam Bbong ($9.95) a Korean style spicy seafood soup with noodles. A hefty serving, Patty didn't make it all they way through before the heat got to him. I liked the level of heat, but his head turned a light shade of crimson by the end. Similarly, he was having comical coordination problems, that were causing him to repeatedly splatter soup in his eye. Note the crazy looking expression in the photo - I think that was the soup. Despite his largely self inflicted discomfort he noted a nice seafood soup base, as well as both small blue mussels and a couple of larger green mussels, squid, prawn and shrimp. I like this style of soup especially for brunch, after a festive evening. The hot spicy soup is great for a headache.

The menu also has a fairly thorough selection of  Korean fare, Bip bim bop, Galbi, Bulgogi, Pajun, Dongace, among others at reasonable prices (the menu tops out at $14.95). I'm looking forward to a dinner visit to try some of these dishes.

One final note - they have lots of table condiments. I love that.

Oct 09

 New Wine Picks

Foo - Asian Street Food

Next to the Dalton Hotel at Yates St and Blanshard St

Only two weeks old, Foo is not at this point, subject to criticism. That said, we were very happy with our experience. With some prodding from a Little Piggy reader, we headed for dinner. With some guidance from co-owner Sterling Grice, we made our selection: pakoras, beef short rib and broccoli, carmalised chicken and pad thai.

The pakoras were among the best I've had - anywhere. They were unusually tender and I could taste crushed coriander seeds - not the flavourless ground variety.  The Vietnamese style carmalised chicken (served as an appetizer, but large enough to serve as a small meal) was crispy and flavourful. A nice take on a favourite dish. Patty enjoyed his beef and broccoli. It was far superior to the ordinarily lifeless dish common to conventional Chinese menus. The short rib was tender and maintained it's structural integrity. Bea's pad thai, was as you might expect, but with brighter flavours and somewhat more complex seasoning.

All the flavours were strong and could have used a beer to wash them back with (liquor license is forthcoming), but lends itself to a mix and match approach with friends. Chef Patrick Lynch, formerly of Sanuk and Monsoon (Vancouver), clearly knows this cuisine and has a nicely designed menu for accommodating a variety of tastes.

Watch out Noodle Box and co., at this point in the game, Foo offers a more interesting variety of dishes, prepared with greater competency.

Sept 09

Posh

1063 Fort St tel: 250 382 POSH (7674)

Taking over the defunct Med Grill space, it seemed oddly coincidental that a hot pot restaurant would return to this space, having originally been built to house a different hot pot restaurant, quite a number of years ago. Maybe they were ahead of their time?

Posh is a Vancouver chain of restaurants, all with very similar menus. My pastry chef Vicki and Vancouver native, described it as pricey and popular. I've heard worst things about an impending restaurant visit.

We arrived with our staff go-to-girl Bea, in tow. The staff were friendly and responsive, with a whole script of helpful information.  The spiel wasn't overbearing and explained the one item menu (there are a couple of small noodle dishes on the menu, but the sukiyaki was the only item of note). It was also explained that two orders would be enough for the three of us. I don't know why they portion it this way, but it made the whole endeavor quite inexpensive ($15.98 per portion).

Unfortunately, the liquor license  was not in place yet, so virgin cocktails were offered; with the first round on the house. It certainly was a good way to get me to try expensive blended juice drinks ($4-5). I had the lychee green tea that included nice chunks of lychee in the bottom. Patty had a strawberry and crushed ice drink, that was pink and fruit - his favourite. Bea was less a fan of her lychee and berry concoction, that was very purple and very sweet.

The sukiyaki arrived with detailed cooking instruction, including the encouragement to dip the cooked meat (pork and beef) in a raw egg before eating. Hey, why not?! It was indeed, much tastier with the egg. Other garnish included, an assortment of tofu - fried, fresh, frozen and curd; mushrooms - shitake, button and cloud's ear; cabbages - napa, sui choy and green; vegetables - winter melon, yam, pumpkin, zucchini. The broth was tasty and all the condiments fresh. We most liked the mushrooms, the cabbages and the pumpkin.

At the end of the meal we were offered rice to eat with the extra sauce. If we weren't full all ready, this would ensure we wouldn't leave hungry. In the absence of booze and with the promo drinks, it was really cheap. I could definitely see myself racking up a bigger bill with alcohol, since the broth is by definition a bit salty.

A little bit unusual, without being complicated, the food was comfortable and the service friendly.

Prime Steakhouse

623 Courtney St tel 250-386-2010

Hugo's Grill was a kinda steak house, then it became Sanuk - Asian fusion; now, it's Prime Steakhouse - will it work? Maybe.

The clientele was overwhelmingly American and the server was surprised we weren't. Normally, it's a recipe for mediocrity - tonight, not so much.

The menu does not cater to Victoria's locovore infatuation, but at the same time has some style.  If you're into steaks, Prime will be a fairly interesting destination. The signature dish is a dry aged New York - bone in. What's that? I could imagine, but that's not a restaurant steak. A steak with big shrinkage and you need a bandsaw to cut it. That's cool...

The server was shockingly good. He knew the menu and the wine list and wasn't even slightly off put by a battery of questions. He was remarkably smooth, in the face of a transient clientele. As I gazed into the wine list, the server offered assistance. I explained what I was looking at, but suggested if he had any bright ideas I was all ears. He asked a question or two and offered his recommendation. A mid-priced California Zinfandel, it was better than what I would have picked without direction.

We started with the half dozen oysters (Kushi) and the beef carpaccio. The oysters were clean with shaved horseradish and mignonette. My carpaccio was classically presented with arugula, aioli and crostini. Tasty, but with a distinguishing cap of fat - not characteristic of a tenderloin, the cut used in carpaccio. We asked the server about it. He was very concerned about our satisfaction with the dish. I explained that it was very tasty, but I was curious, because it's unusual to find a layer of fat ringing the tenderloin. He politely went to the kitchen to inquire. He returned with a candid explanation of  - yes, the chef noticed that too and thought it was unusual, but he didn't want to mess with the meat. Fair enough, I'm not one to complain about extra fat.

For our main courses Patty had the signature dry aged, bone in New York. Weighing in at 16 oz, this was a large, albeit not ludicrously so, portion. It was weird to have the bone in, but I like it - it's kinda steakhouse classy. It's nice to go to a steakhouse and be offered an interesting steak. The steak was served with an array of a la carte accompaniments; Patty went for the risotto and Bearnaise sauce. The risotto was cooked to Patty's very personal standard, the Bearnaise was executed competently and the veggies were properly cooked.  A mountain of calories, but the leftovers make a great doggie bag and late night snack.

I had the lambchops and frites. Two chops, I, at first was off put by the lack of sauce on the plate. I swear by a shot of demi glace as a fundamental component of most meat dishes. I grumbled, ate a few bites and suddenly it reminded me of something - kissing a drunk man! The lamb, a gamey meat, had a powerful hit of red wine. Oh, the memories of my more single years -- smoochies after copious amount of steak and red wine. I'm not sure if I want to eat that all the time, but it was fun thinking about it and I decided it didn't really need sauce. I wouldn't have poopoo'ed the demi, but I value a dish that makes me feel something. My frites however, did desperately need a condiment.

No room for dessert, we finished our wine and took a doggie bag for a midnight picnic. I may not have the constitution for regular steak house visits, but this time, I was pleasantly surprised. 

**Picnic update - we ate our leftovers at about 1am with some fresh tomatoes for the garden. It was a glorious late night picnic.

August 2009

The Rathskellar ... my illicit love  1205 Quadra Street, 386 - 9348

Since being scorned by the Rathskellar in 2005, my love has become an illicit one.  Not welcome in the restaurant, I have had to find other ways to obtain my favourite German dishes - ordering takeaway from Dine In and hiding in my house, eating my dinner and feeling naughty. There is something a little titillating about being being berated, then sneaking back to indulge in the objects of your desire. I just can't get the image of riding crops out of my head.

It's getting harder all the time to accept my punishment. With dishes like pork knuckle, sauerbraten, wurst and their array of dumplings and delicious pickled red cabbage teasing me from afar. Oh, it's pretty good when it's delivered, but it's not the same. The Styrofoam packaging just isn't very sexy and I can't replicate the accordion player at all.

Tonight we dine on rouladen and cabbage rolls behind closed doors, maybe I'll put on some tall leather boots.

See 2005 review here

Bistro 28
2583 Cadboro Bay Road
tel: (250) 598-2828

Bistro 28 is a pleasant surprise. There's room for refinement, but the concept is strong. I was disappointed that I didn't know more about the menu and concept upon arrival. The media and promotions have been light. Occupying the former Wren space in Oak Bay, I knew there had been some physical changes, but wasn't sure how that had been translated to the general approach.
The physical space is much, much better. If nothing else, the air circulation is better. Similarly, there is more seating - less formal and good for the bottom line. The decor is thoughtful and well executed. The menu is short and sweet, if not well communicated. The wine list if above average and credited to the neighbours, BCWineGuys.
Short, careful menus are the goal of all well-meaning, ego-moderated cooks - it just works better for everyone. Bistro 28 has one of those menus, with a nice blend of practical, innovative and familiar. The service was uneven, but well within the range of acceptable. Our server was on the awkward side, but friendly and sincere. The other server, who seated and took our cocktail order, was much stronger and given a few weeks, the two of them very well may equalise each other.
We ordered the foie gras torchon, the 'dry ribs,' the steak frites and the chicken legs. The prices feel like value, although the portions are unpredictable and needed more explanation from the server. The first courses seemed like super value. My torchon was one of the better I've had lately. The accompanying aspic was awesome. My love of aspic is weird, but nevertheless - it was delicate, beautifully presented and full flavoured. Patty's dry ribs; pork belly crispy fried with salt and lemon, were fun and cool; if not a little heavy for anything but beer drinking. Patty's main course, chicken legs were similarly, super cool. Three braised chicken legs, that then received the treatment of hot wings. Fried and tossed in a housemade and nicely balanced chili sauce. Accompanied by a celery an carrot ribbon salad. What a fun dish. Patty and I did however, both agree, that a heavier and creamier dressing on the salad would have been a better homage to hot wings and more balanced. My steak frites was small, but after I ate it, I was onboard with the portion. A 4 oz flat iron (shoulder clod) steak, it was nicely cooked. I could have eaten more, but I would have felt gross later. The fries were super hot and crispy with a tasty red pepper coulis.
The price tag wasn't 'cheap,' but it was perfectly acceptable - more importantly I left feeling comfortable and that means I'll be back more often than a 'special occasion' restaurant would attract me. A strong start...
July 2009

Orale
1002 Johnson St, tel: 250-590-3370 11-9 every day

A relatively new comer on the Mexican dining scene, Orale has some less than conventional menu items that are a pleasant change from your standard fare. Billed as classic and traditional, typical dishes from Mexico, the selection and execution reminds me much more of Mexican food served in San Francisco than in Mexico (our even Southern California). Not really a criticism, considering simple availability of produce is going to impact an 'authentic' product. Similarly, from a business perspective, this slightly northern style is probably a good bet around here.
The restaurant ambiance could use some work. For the amount of money Orale is spending on advertising I think they could have funnelled some of it into some new flooring and the destruction of the hideous chairs. Some simple design features to offset the hollowness of the large floor plan would be nice too, but beggars can't be choosers.
They have an above average selection of Mexican pantry items. While most of it looks like overstocked kitchen inventory, the chili selection is one of the better available in town. The prices are very reasonable.
Patty and I split the tacos al pastor and the tostadas with cochinita with a side of rice and beans. The presentation makes the dishes a little hard for sharing, but we managed. I was delighted with a selection of hot sauces, but again I couldn't use much with the non-sharing plating. The tacos were decent, but the pork was a bit dry, albeit well seasoned. The pineapple however, wasn't observably grilled, as described. The tortillas were tender. The tostadas were a lot more impressive, with crispy tortillas and nice fresh toppings. That said, they have nothing on the cochinita at Hernandez, but I was delighted to see it on the menu and it was perfectly tasty. The rice and beans were basic, but spot on my taste. The prices, like the dry goods, were very reasonable.
The most unusual menu item are the tamales. Not usually a restaurant item, especially in these parts. Corn dumplings steamed in corn husks, tamales don't really work for me unless I've just gotten off a bus at some ridiculous hour, in a random Mexican town. Then they're perfect. Our Mexican friend and tamale lover, Luis, tried the tamales and wasn't terribly impressed; but we won't let him be the definitive voice on the tamale issue, since I don't think anything but his mother's and maybe his auntie's tamales would satisfy his highly discerning tamale palate.
The staff were pleasant, but they seemed underworked and a little bored. They have an unfortunate service lay out, that demands a lot of people to maintain a basic level of efficiency; that's an issue that lurks in labour cost, not in customer experience.
Orale has a fun menu and is good value. The ambiance needs some work, but I'm open to supporting the process.
July 2009


Cabin 12
607 Pandora Ave Tel: (250) 590-1500

I'm not sure where the name Cabin 12 originates from, but it seems I might be alone on the Psycho movie reference. With line ups for breakfast all over town, Cabin 12 features an abundance of seating. Bright and breezy, the service was quick and friendly. With fairly conventional breakfast items, burgers, salads and sandwiches, the menu does not lack a sense of humour with culinary effigies for local celebrities. Considering the downtown location and large square footage the prices are low to cheap. I had the Harl's Burg - a handmade burger patty topped with tomato, an onion ring and a fried egg. A good tasting burger and the fried egg was cooked just right for a pleasant amount of 'squirtage' without being gross. Patty had a steak sandwich - the beef was a little chewy, but considering the price point, not unexpectedly so. Served with fried mushrooms, onion as well as lettuce and tomato, it begged the question - how do you eat a two-sided steak sandwich? Are you supposed to try? I'm going for no, don't even try. The accompanying hashbrowns and fries were fresh and tasty, albethem similar to one another.
There are some fairly significant quirks at Cabin 12, but it's not without charm. As a vehement grumble guts about queueing for breakfast, another option in the downtown core is almost always going to be a good thing.
July 2009

Veneto
Hotel Rialto tel:250-383-7310 1450 Douglas St

Swanky with a kickass wine list...Victoria has been waiting for this for awhile. Veneto wouldn't seem at all remarkable in a bigger city, but it's pretty unusual around here.
Some big money went into developing the old Douglas Hotel and the infamous "Dougie" beer hall.
The menu is a series of trios - fun and pretty tasty. I was especially fond of the sliders (mini-burgers), with chopped striploin, cooked medium rare ($14).
Food aside Veneto has the most interesting wine list I've seen in a long time. They have a little bit of everything, with lots of glasses, as well as flights and a bottle list with incredible breadth for the length.
The service was friendly and informed and not at all pretentious considering the 'big city' ambiance.
Veneto will ultimately be a drinking spot with food, but to be honest, that's what Victoria needs.
June 2009


Zambri's

#110-911 Yates Street Victoria, BC V8V 4X3. 360-1171

With many years of service in Victoria, Zambri's remains my top choice for Italian food.
Zambri's in not a conventional Victoria restaurant in any way. With a casual ambiance that seems more in line with their lunch menu than the more complex dinner menu, people eat at Zambri's for the food - read more here...


Vic Burger and Little Piggy Unite at Canoe


Yep, after months of being email pen pals, we hooked up with Donald from Vic Burger to compare notes on the infamous Aussie Burger at Canoe. Read Donald's review and my two bits here
June 09
Sips Artisan Bistro
425 Simcoe St tel: 250 590 3519
I don't know how long I've been bemoaning the lack of wine bars in Victoria. Slowly, but surely they appear to be emerging. Located in James Bay Square, next to the Spinnaker's Spirit Merchant, Sips offers a simple menu with a 'tasting' theme. We went for lunch and were presented with a selection of salads and sandwiches and a generous array of speciality cheeses and charcuterie.  While there aren't any mind blower menu inspirations, it's a well constructed, bistro inspired menu. They also feature a dinner menu with more complex dishes. The best part about Sips is that they sell bottles of wine at retail prices!! That's great value. The menu also has some high food cost items at very reasonable prices. Pair that with the bargain wine and I'm a happy camper.

We started with an a la carte Hillary's Red Dawn cheese and Choux Choux jambon de Champagne (kudos to Luc on this product - I'm big fan of European style hams). Good portions of both, this type of thing is never cheap andI felt I was getting reasonable value. I had the the heirloom tomato, arugula and soprresseta salad with Moostruck White Grace Cheese. Served with croutons it was a meal sized salad. The tomatoes were surprisingly ripe, the arugula fresh and the salami beautifully sliced. I found the dressing a bit light however, and the cheese a little strong for this pairing, but enjoyed it as a whole.


Patty had the smoked trout sandwich. He really liked it and we both remarked that we don't see enough smoked trout on menus.

The service was friendly and reasonably attentive, but could have had a little more menu training, with a couple questions loosely answered.
The bottle of French Chablis we drank made the ensuing shopping trip next door to the wine store a little useless, but I was given the option to take the end of the bottle home. I'll try using that kind of restraint next time.

note: Spinnaker's Wine Merchant next door is an excellent pick for buying local wines
May 09

Paprika Bistro
2524 Estevan St tel: 250 592 7424
With a recent change of ownership, the new Paprika didn't disappoint. The restaurant and menu structure remains the same, while incorporating the vision of new management and a new chef. Kudos for maintaining the positive atmosphere that has existed in this space for decades as Paprika and its predecessor Chez Daniel. Prices are reasonable and quality is high. The wine list isn't what it used to be, but let's give them a chance to build it back up.
Patty tried the beef tartar, which was unconventional, but tasty. Followed by the pork chop, which was portioned on the heavy side, but succulent and full flavoured. I had the greens with shaved foie gras, which was creatively well balanced, then the quail. Oh how I love little birds... it was a fussy dish,  without being pretentious.
Having always enjoyed this restaurant, it's a happy occasion to announce that is appears to have been left in good hands.
May 09

Blue Coast Restaurant
1951 Oak Bay Ave tel: 250-590-8896 open for breakfast and lunch

Sure, I'm still a little grumbly about the untimely departure of Ver Jus, but I decided enough time had passes, my wounds adequately healed, we would venture forth to the new Blue Coast restaurant occupying its former space.
There's really nothing to compare. Blue Coast is a family oriented diner with a healthy directive. They've redecorated effectively adding booths, that make the large seating area seem a little more cozy.
I dislike the layout of the menu, with too many photos and a hard to read font, but the content is interesting. I can't believe there is a consumer demand for the amount of healthy fresh fruit items they have, but I like the selection of crepes.
Patty had the Blue Coast Breakfast - eggs, bacon, sausage, toast and baked beans (and a fresh fruit garnish). It was good, albeit not spectacular. I'm sure it could be easily improved with some higher quality meat products and eggs, but Patty was happy.
I had the Florentine Crepe (also with a fresh fruit garnish). It was interesting that they added the spinach to the batter and the portion of cheese and bacon inside was good. The crepe was hot and tender and the fruit garnish was prepapred a la minute. I liked it and would definitly come back to have it again.
A pretty standard approach with a little bit of flair, the service was friendly and fast. There is ample parking and lots of seating - a big plus in a breakfast restaurant. I could have hoped for a little more zaaa, but generally speaking our visit to Blue Coast exceeded expectations.
April 09

Pescatores
614 Humboldt St, tel: 250.385.4512 open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner

Pescatores has enjoyed many years of success with a powerful combination of tourists, local and business clientele. In recent years, with competition increasing among higher end restaurants, it seemed as if Pescatores was drifting into a malaise of tourist driven menus.  Being on the cusp of the tourist season we thought we'd venture into the inner harbour before the throngs of tourists begin their annual surge.
For a Sunday night Pescatores was very busy. We were seated and served quickly in the large, attractive dining room. With a fresh sheet that included a sensible glossary of fish and oyster types, we were feeling confident.
We ordered half a dozen oyster ($12) and drinks while we read over the menu. The oysters arrived quickly with a conventional mignonette and fresh horseradish, a nice touch. The oysters were fresh, but could have been shucked a little more carefully. read more here....

April 2009





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